Fugu, the pufferfish

What it means

In Shimonoseki, Japan’s pufferfish capital, people call it fuku instead of fugu — the same sound as 福, good fortune. Fishmongers there trade “luck” every morning.

Dried, inflated pufferfish lanterns hang in shops and restaurants as charms that ward off misfortune.

And surviving a fugu dinner has always been a small celebration in itself.

At the sushi counter

Only chefs with a special licence may prepare fugu, because parts of the fish contain tetrodotoxin. The classic is tessa: sashimi cut so thin you can see the plate’s pattern through it, arranged like a chrysanthemum.

Good to know

• Fugu season is winter; the tradition is to eat it from autumn to spring.
• Hirezake is hot sake infused with a grilled fugu fin.
• The tiger puffer (torafugu) is the most prized variety.