Ebi, the shrimp

What it means

A bent back and long whiskers — the shrimp looks like an old man, so it stands for a long and healthy life, long enough to grow a stoop.

That’s why shrimp is part of osechi, the New Year’s boxes of symbolic dishes, and of wedding banquets.

Red when cooked, it also carries the lucky colour of celebrations.

At the sushi counter

Ebi nigiri is usually boiled tiger prawn, butterflied over the rice. Amaebi, the sweet shrimp, is served raw — sometimes with its fried head on the side. Ebi tempura rolls are a favourite outside Japan.

Good to know

• Ise-ebi, the spiny lobster, is the most prestigious shrimp of all at New Year.
• Odori-ebi, “dancing shrimp”, are served so fresh they still move.
• In the kanji 海老, 海 means sea and 老 means old.